Is the food, obviously. I gained a good kilogram or so during my venture to Italy. But it was a worthy kilo, made up of carbs and cheese and wine, not like the pussy weight that I put on in Japan that consists of candies and chips and midnight chocolate snacking. More and more I am convinced that I am a deathly obese fat lady with bunions and blood sugar problems living inside a pudgy asian girl just waiting to bust out. It’s happening. Slowly. I hope that I still can category as pudgy. I think I’m bordering onto chubby. Soon I will move onto being butch. Or is butch before chubby? I wonder if there is some sort of fat word measuring stick out there.
So. Here is a list I made of the favourite foods I consumed in the past two weeks. Or of any other food revelations I’ve had. They are numbered, but in no particular order. Confusing, no?
1. Spaghetti alle Vongole Bianco in Venice
Venice obviously being a seaside town, this was one of the must eats listed in every book and website for Venice. This is a simple dish of fresh clams, olive oil, garlic, Italian parsely (mainly– I hear variations include the use of white wine, tomatoes, chili peppers, other shellfish, etc). The one I had was very good and not overly oily or salty at all as I have heard complaints about online. Note to self to try this at home sometime because fresh clams are so cheap and easy to find in Japan.
2. Caprese Salad in Milan, Rome, and Florence
So, I have finally had my tomato revelation that I have been waiting so long for. I’ve always felt left out of conversations and Top Chef segments where everyone seemed to be raving about fresh tomato dishes. Ever since, I’ve been trying to make myself like raw tomatoes and it’s been a very hard journey. Italy seemed to be the perfect place to overcome my fear of the gushy, smelly, disgustingness of tomatoes and on our first day out for dinner in Milan I get the Caprese salad (top picture).
It was fabulous. Really fabulous. It was on a completely differnt level then my pathetic mini Caprese salad knock-off I mentioned in a post back in May. I love how simple this dish is– just three ingredients. I love how they call this dish a salad even though its just hunks of cheese and tomatoes (though it’s treated more as an antipasti in Italy). Anyway, The cheese here was the famed Mozzarella di Bufala Campana, which I found on many menus interestingly enough. Perhaps it is like a staple in Italy. The cheese was So good. Not rubbery and plasticky like the ones you get in Japan but actual cheese that was so rich and thick and creamy. No wonder this cheese is protected under Italian Law. And the tomatoes were these huge juicy things that really made sense to call them a Fruit. Which I always thought was odd. But it made sense at that moment. They weren’t smelly and didn’t give me that gaggy tomato feeling I always get. My bubba mentioned to me that Japanese tomatoes aren’t very good unless you pay lots of money for them… typical. I want to build a monument to this salad. Do they have cheese and tomatoes this delicious in Canada too? Notice that I have untraditionally drizzled balsamic vinegar over them, as normally this dish is dressed only with olive oil, salt, pepper, and basil to taste. But if a waiter thumps a nice bottle of balsamic vinegar next to my tomatoes, I am going to use it. I should have taken it home with me to drink out of.
Over the next two weeks I get two more of these dishes (the middle picture is from Rome, the third from Florence). I know, shoot me, I should be trying other things, not filling up on stuff I’ve already had. But I really just couldn’t get enough of this legendary cheese. And those adorable tomatoes. Every time I had it it was a little different but always delicious.
3. Octopus Salad in Venice
This was just one of those random dishes aimlessly ordered at the beginning of the meal to fill up the table that just happened to be really good. Does that ever happen? Isn’t that such a great moment? And pretty! I’m not exactly sure what the salad was seasoned with but it was perfect, I loved all the different herbs and curry scented spices that went oddly well with the sweet balsamic vinegar reduction. Cheers to Venice for the nice octopus as well. Like buttah.
4. Gnocchi with Apple Gorgonzola Cheese Sauce in Milan
I had a lot of cream-based sauce pastas in Italy and many of them deemed to be queasy and really heavy. So I was really taking a chance ordering this pasta filled withe heavy gnocchi, heavy cheese, heavy cream. But the teeny bits of apples added texture to the dish and although the apple flavour was kind of overpowered by the gorgonzola, I think they served their purpose. Oh and the overuse of Italian parsley was much appreciated.
5. Caffé Florian in Venice
I think the visit to this historical coffee bar was one of the highlights of our trip to Venice. The interior, just as seen on Aria was pretty epic, filled with expensive-looking art and velvety red sofas. Different rooms are filled with different art themes, and seeing the few cafe rooms is like visiting a tiny, quaint museum. Filled with coffee!
The cafe latte, was most definitely one of the best that I had in Italy. But that may just have been the effect of the pretty room and the 8 euro price tag on my drink. Such a perfect Aria moment.
6. 4 Leoni salad in Florence
This is one of the restaurant names I remember, mostly because it was the name of this epic salad. Rocket, avocadoes, emmantal cheese, rosted pine nuts and walnuts, and arugula pesto. It was a very interesting salad, and the pesto that dressed the salad was really delicious.
7. Cheesecake in Rome
I don’t remember where I ate this cheesecake but I’m going to flat out say that it was probably the best cheesecake I’ve ever eaten in my life. I can’t believe I just wrote that. How bold of me. I’ll probably edit it out later, such a daring statement. Most of the sweets in Italy fared to be too sweet for my modest tongue but this was so light and fluffy and airy and almost like cream. But still cheese! Still cake! The cookie at the bottom was paper thin and chewy and a little salty. The chocolate sauce on top was so rich but not disgustingly sweet. I think the sauce also had a bit of salt in it, which I thought was a nice touch. The balance that this cheesecake had was so zen, I think it could start its own religion.
8. Pizza in Naples
This was a sort of mandatory meal to have in Naples, the birthplace of pizza. As much as I complained how dirty and disgusting Naples was in my last post, I think that it was one of my favourite cities because everything I ate there happened to be delicious. And I refused to eat any pizza in this country until I arrived in Naples. Which caused some confusion back in Milan when my Bubba tried to order pizza for an appetizer to share and I started sputtering and flailing around in a seizure. He stared at me like a crazy lady as I had a tantrum and tried to explain between “OMGGGGG”s and “UGHHHH”s that there was no point in ordering pizza in Milan when you’ll be visiting the birthplace of pizza in a couple days. Right? I’m not crazy right? I mean, if you were on your way to heaven and you pass by a cheap, broken down confessional, you wouldn’t stop by to talk to the old guy in the tattered robes when you can just skip up a couple more stairs and open those golden gates and just talk to GOD, right?!
That was a lazy metaphor. I think I just keep grabbing for those elementary God metaphors because I just finished flipping through a few gigabytes of Vatican City photos for my last post. Up to my ears in Jesus! Ho ho ho.
So we ventured into the heart of Naples as I clutched my list of “Best Pizzerias in Naples” and walked until we happened to run into one of them. The particular one we came across was Di Matteo, which had rave reviews online. The reviews were proven justice with the Margherita we ordered, a whole pie for 4 euros (pictured above). Basically it was the pizza you can get at Salvatore in Japan for a third of the price. Just a simple pizza cooked in a woodfire oven with no more then five ingredients. I wish someone could open a pizzeria like this on the first floor of my apartment.
The next pizza we had in Naples was at dinner near our hotel that came highly recommended by trip advisor. To be honest, I would say the pizzas here I liked better then the legendary Di Matteo. The dough was chewy and sticky and beautiful. I think my favourite pizza is Marinera. Which is odd, considering a few years ago I laughed at the thought of a cheeseless pizza. I love the herbs and the oregano and all the smells that come out of it. Its like a pizza lullaby.
At the same restaurant, we got the Quattro Fromaggio pizza. I thought that with the three pizzas we had in Naples it was a very practical decision to have one white pizza, one red pizza, and one white and red pizza. I decided to keep to the simple menus instead of ordering any extravagant pizzas in our short time in Naples. Logical, right? I have no idea what four cheeses were on that pizza but they were all a big steaming, stinky, smoking mess. But like a really delicious one. Thank you, Naples.
9. Melons in Rome
One sleepy, rainy night in Rome, we wandered past the Italian grocery store and decided we would grab a bunch of groceries, a bottle of wine, and stay in for dinner. After wandering around the deli grabbing hams, cheeses, three different kinds of olives, a small roasted chicken and some random gross-lookin pasta, we search for dessert and approach the fruit stand. And we see these gigantic yellow melons I’ve never seen before and my bubba says to me “let’s get a melon”. I protested, arguing that melons are a little out of season, and we only had a small army knife to dissect the thing. But a couple minutes later, we wait by the register with not only our 3 euro melon, but two fresh tomatos, and a couple plums (impossible to find in Japan).
Cutting open the melon went a lot easier then I predicted, the cheap army knife slipping through the meat like butter. Which I think is a really stupid saying because if you have actually tried cutting through butter, it’s quite the bitch to get through. Unless its like, melted. After slipping off a slice for each of us, taking the first bite… was like taking a bite out of the sun. It glowed. We ate the whole melon there with hotel bath towels as bibs for the juices that ran down our chins and made disgusting ramen-eating noises. I think this was another one of my favourite eating experiences ever. Maybe because after living in Japan for three years, melons seem like sacred fruit that costs about 20 dollars for a decent one and just the extravagance of splitting one open and consuming them like barbarians… Ohh, I could really go on forever. We moved onto the bloody tomatoes next, sprinkling packets of salt and olive oil on each bite and eating them like apples. Our fingers were sticky with tomato juice, salt, oil, and melon juice, as we devoured the sugary plums finally, before washing our hands and starting on the actual dinner we got. Can you imagine? It was really a night.
10. Fiocchetti di Pera in Florence
I think this was my favourite pasta I had in Italy, hands down. I probably ordered this dish after loving the gorgonzola and apple gnocchi, looking for another pasta/fruit combination, and this one proved to be even better. It was really cute to look at, to start. The fioccheti were like little knobs, or purses of fresh pasta filled with sweet pears. The sauce was a taleggio cheese sauce that went so well with the sweetness of the pears. There were also bits of asparagus in the sauce, that acted like a little cleanser between bites of pasta so all that cheese cream didn’t make you feel sick. It was such a light, pretty dish. A perfect sweet-savoury dish. Oh I wish I could eat this again one day.
11. Paninis everywhere
Another thing I wish that I could regularly eat are hot paninis. Usually for lunch as we walked around, we could pick up a decent sandwich on almost every street corner. And I don’t think bad sandwiches exist in Italy because I never happened to come across one. The picture above is a roast pork and bell pepper hot panini that was pressed in the grill right before we walked outside with it. The outside was so crispy and hot and the pork was lean but juicy and the bell peppers were tangy. It was such a good sandwich for walking outside in the cold. But I will forever regret not taking a picture of my favourite sandwich I had in Italy, right by the Florence train station. A ham and cheese sandwich. To be specific, it was a cold sandwich with parma ham and a cheese I couldn’t identify, sandwiched between two thin slices of focaccia with olives baked into them. I think this is the first time I really liked parma ham, as I could never get over the feeling of eating raw pork. Though its cured and dried, it is still considered raw. But this sandwich was EPIC. The ham was soft and tore off in strips as you ate so you would be slurping up bits with every bite you took. Which sounds kind of gross but it was really fantastic. And you forgot about the grossness of the raw ham because it was taken away by that beautiful stinky cheese. I’m going to guess it was an emmantel cheese, sliced thin, but I’m probably wrong. Oh and the olives baked in the bread were perfect. Like pickles in a hamburger, but better, because they were olives.
12. Bistecca alla Fiorentina
I realized I had little meat dishes in my list of favourite dishes, though I suppose I enjoyed almost all the ones we had. Probably because the salads and the pastas and the pizzas seemed to overpower the meat in my head. They seem so much prettier and delicate then a big hunk of steak. Or lamb. My bubba had the lamb. I was not a fan. When I tried some, he made sheep noises across the table from me with the novelty Mahh-ing sheeplight keychain that dangles from my wallet (credit goes to Hana for that charming memory). Anyway, the most memorable steak we had was in Florence, where we had the highly acclaimed Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a T-bone steak served as a minimum of 1 kilogram and very rare. As we ordered it, the waiter explained to us in broken English, “Bloody, blood, blood, ok?” Well ok. Though it really wasn’t that bad. We guessed that the nice people in the kitchen assumed we were a couple of timid asian folk and cooked it a soft medium rare. Also, they gave us a 700 gram serving instead of the minimum 1 kilogram when I asked for the smallest one they had (which was thankful, as they charge about 6 euros for every 100 grams). As steaks go, this was a pretty good one, which was no surprise as this was the same restaurant that had the pear pasta I loved. I thought it was nice that steaks come with a side of lemon and salt, to taste, instead of some sort of corny steak sauce you would except in many western institutions. I apologize for the crappy picture quality, as the lights were dimmed to create a romantic atmosphere. Because everyone gets horny in the dark.
13. Tarts in Rome, Limoncello in Venice, Sfogliatelle in Naples
This is kind of my “honorable mention” section. Because I think the following treats deserve some sort of recognition even though they lack the fanfare of the items listed above.
These little tarts in Rome were given to us by some nice waiter in a little trattoria on the outskirts of Vatican City. I believe it was because it was a busy night and sitting next to us were a group of overenthusiastic Chinese tourists that screamed when they talked, got really drunk, threw food at each other and had to be told to settle down a couple times. It was actually kind of entertaining but the staff seemed genuinely irritated. I wish I had videotaped what they were saying in Italian and asked someone on youtube to translate. I could have maybe started some Chinese-Italian international social war. But the food was good, and these little tarts were so adorable. The filling was a sweet ricotta cheese cream, and the sour little baby strawberries looked like Disney characters. So cute.
Lemons seemed to be one of those trademark Italian fruits, and limoncello was a popular after dinner shot-like drink. I’m not a fan of one-shot drinks after being babied by the overly-diluted cocktails in Japan but this one was actually kind of tolerable. I think I liked how it has such a sweet, lemony, aftertaste. Behind it sits a shot of my bubba’s Grappa, which also seemed to be a popular Italian digestivo. I’m not sure what it is, or what it’s made of, but it tasted pretty toxic.
I truly, truly regret not taking the picture of the sfogliatelle pastry we had in Naples the morning we left for Rome. It was rush time and we grabbed a bunch of pastries and ate on the train. Here is a wikipedia article so you can get an idea of what this pastry is like, but it was really pretty. The one I had was filled with a cream that wasn’t too sweet, topped with powdered sugar, and a strawberry. It was so crispy and sweet and interesting and perfect. And PRETTY! I’m so mad I never took that picture.
I think this is marking the near conclusion of my food post.In the end, I would say that much of the food in Italy was appropriately epic. I would recommend thoroughly researching restaurants to go to beforehand. Ask your hotel receptionist for recommendations. My restaurant research before our trip was well planned out from Milan to Naples, but kind of dwindled down in Rome when I started getting tired and lazy. So the eating experience in Rome suffered accordingly (including a Spaghetti alle Carbonara I had that was so bathed in fat and cream and oil that I promptly experienced mild red belly the morning after consumption. “You don’t have to eat all of it if its so disgusting.” “Ohh but I feel so bad. I can just choke it down with some wine”).
I also recommend that if you’re low on time or money, avoid the touristy places that offer you a set of pasta, water, and coffee for eight euros or so. Get a sandwich instead. Tide yourself over with some fresh pastries. Drink lots of cappucinos.
What I regret, is not eating more desserts, not taking note of the names of all the restaurants I went to (much of my sparknotes were lost, destroyed, or thrown out with other receipts), not being a more sophisticated sommelier (I still, for the life of me, cannot tell the difference between one wine from another. Perhaps I’m not mature enough. The only thing I could judge was “oh this one reeks of alcohol” and “oh, I can down this one like soda” ..What a waste), not taking higher quality pictures of the meals I had, and lastly–not eating more. I wish I could have shoved more shit into this body. My bulldozer days are long gone, and it’s going to take some more training to get my stomach back to its former elasticity.
So after two weeks of cold turkey on Japanese cuisine (yes, we refused to surrender and hide out in a Japponaise Ristorante to gorge on rice as we saw many other tourists do), we arrive at the Nagoya airport and the first thing I ask my bubba is:
“You know what I really want to eat?”
And he guesses, “Pasta? Pizza? Coffee?” Funny.
“I want to eat some fucking curry.”
So we dropped off our luggage, ran to the nearest Cocoichi, and for the first time in three years I voluntarily eat curry rice.
It was really fuckin delicious. This is how our trip to Italy ended.












































































